Ancient yet modern,
fabulously rich yet achingly poor.
The city of Bombay
originally consisted of seven islands, namely
Colaba, Mazagaon, Old Woman's Island, Wadala,
Mahim, Parel, and Matunga-Sion. This group of
islands, which have since been joined together by
a series of reclamations, formed part of the
kingdom of Ashoka, the famous Emperor of India.
After his death,
these islands passed into the hands of various
Hindu rulers until 1343. In that year, the
Mohammedans of Gujerat took possession and the
Kings of that province of India ruled for the next
two centuries. The only vestige (mark) of their
dominion over these islands that remains today is
the mosque at Mahim.
In 1534 the
Portuguese, who already possessed many important
trading centers on the western coast, such as
Panjim, Daman, and Diu, took Bombay by force of
arms from the Mohammedans. This led to the
establishment of numerous churches which were
constructed in areas where the majority of people
were Roman Catholics. There used to be two areas
in Bombay called "Portuguese Church". However,
only one church with Portuguese-style facade still
remains; it is the St. Andrew's church at Bandra.
The Portuguese also fortified their possession by
building forts at Sion, Mahim, Bandra, and Bassien
which, although in disrepair, can still be seen.
They named their new possession as "Bom Baia"
which in Portuguese means "Good Bay".
A hundred and
twenty-eight years later the islands were given to
the English King Charles II in dowry on his
marriage to Portuguese Princess Catherine of
Braganza in 1662. In the year 1668 the islands
were acquired by the English East India Company on
lease from the crown for an annual sum of 10
pounds in gold; so little did the British value
these islands at that time. The Company, which was
operating from Surat, was in search for another
deeper water port so that larger vessels could
dock, and found the islands of Bombay suitable for
development. The shifting of the East India
Company's headquarters to Bombay in 1687 led to
the eclipse of Surat as a principal trading
center. The British corrupted the Portuguese name
"Bom Baia" to "Bombay". The Kolis used to call the
islands "Mumba" after Mumbadevi, the Hindu deity
to whom a temple is dedicated at Babulnath near
Chowpatty's sandy beaches.
The first Parsi to
arrive in Bombay was Dorabji Nanabhoy Patel in
1640. The Parsis, originally from Iran, migrated
to India about 900 years ago. This they did to
save their religion, Zoroastrianism, from invading
Arabs who proselytized Islam. However, in 1689-90,
when a severe plague had struck down most of the
Europeans, the Siddi Chief of Janjira made several
attempts to re-possess the islands by force, but
the son of the former, a trader named Rustomji
Dorabji Patel (1667-1763), successfully warded off
the attacks on behalf of the British with the help
of the 'Kolis', the original fisher-folk
inhabitants of these islands. The remnants of the
Koli settlements can still be seen at Backbay
reclamation, Mahim, Bandra, Khar, Bassien and Madh
island.
Sir George Oxenden
became the first British Governor of the islands,
and was succeeded later by Mr. Gerald Aungier who
made Bombay more populous by attracting Gujerati
traders, Parsi ship-builders, and Muslim and Hindu
manufacturers from the mainland. He fortified
defenses by constructing the Bombay Castle (the
Fort, since then vanished except for a small
portion of the wall) and provided stability by
constituting courts of law.
Between 1822 and
1838, cattle from the congested fort area used to
graze freely at the Camp Maidan (now called Azad
Maidan), an open ground opposite the Victoria
Terminus. In 1838, the British rulers introduced a
'grazing fee' which several cattle-owners could
not afford. Therefore, Sir Jamshedji Jeejeebhoy
spent Rs. 20,000 from his own purse for purchasing
some grasslands near the seafront at Thakurdwar
and saw that the starving cattle grazed without a
fee in that area. In time the area became to be
known as "Charni" meaning grazing. When a railway
station on the BB&CI railway was constructed there
it was called Charni Road.
The Zoroastrian
Towers of Silence on Malabar hill were built by
Seth Modi Hirji Vachha in 1672. The Zoroastrians
believe in venerating the earth, fire, and water
and hence they prefer to expose their dead to the
elements and flesh-eating birds within the
confines of the Towers of Silence. The first
fire-temple was also built in the same year by
Seth Vachha opposite his residence at Modikhana
within the British fort. Both of the these
structures can still be seen today although they
have been expanded and strengthened.
The inroads of the
sea at Worli, Mahim, and Mahalaxmi turned the
ground between the islands into swamps making
Bombay an extremely unhealthy place at that time.
Many commuters going to the Fort by boat between
islands lost their lives when there was a storm
during the monsoons (July to September). During
the next 40 years much was done to improve
matters. Reclamation work to stop the breeches at
Mahalaxmi and Worli were undertaken. The Hornby
Vellard was completed in 1784, during the
Governorship of Mr. Hornby. In 1803 Bombay was
connected with Salsette by a causeway at Sion. The
island of Colaba was joined to Bombay in 1838 by a
causeway now called Colaba Causeway and the
Causeway connecting Mahim and Bandra was completed
in 1845 at the total cost of Rs.1,57,000 donated
entirely by Lady Avabai Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, wife
of the first baronet Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy with
a stipulation that no toll would be charged to
citizens for its use by the government. Initially
the cost was estimated at Rs.100,000 but as the
work commenced in 1842 the cost escalated. When
the initial sum was exhausted and work about to
stop Lady Jeejeebhoy once again dipped in to her
personal purse with a second donation to the
treasury of Rs.57,000.
Sir Robert Grant
(1779-1838) governed Bombay from 1835 to 1838 and
was responsible for the construction of a number
of roads between Bombay and the hinterland. The
Thana and Colaba Causeways were built during his
tenure as well as the Grant Medical College
attached to the Sir Jamshedji Jeejeebhoy (J.J.)
Group of hospitals.
On Saturday 16th of
April, 1853 a 21-mile long railway line, the first
in India, between Bombay's Victoria Terminus and
Thana was opened. The Great Indian Peninsular (GIP)
and the Bombay Baroda and Central India (BB&CI)
Railway were started in 1860 and a regular service
of steamers on the west coast was commenced in
1869. Also during this period Bombay enjoyed great
economic wealth. Raw cotton from Gujerat was
shipped to Lancashire in England through Bombay
port, and after being spun and woven into cloth,
returned to be sold in the Indian market. The
outbreak of the American Civil War in 1861
increased the demand for cotton in the West and
several personal fortunes were made during this
period from the resulting trade. The opening of
the Suez Canal in 1869 brought the West closer to
Bombay, and as the city became more prosperous,
many schemes were launched for reclaiming
additional land and building more roads and
wharves. Bombay began to attract fortune hunters
by the hundreds and the population had swelled
from 13,726 in 1780 to 644,405 in 1872, in a
little less than a hundred years. By 1906 the
population of Bombay was to become 977,822.
In 1858, following
the First War of Independence (the British called
it the "Sepoy Mutiny") of 1857 in which the Rani
of Jhansi and her infant son strapped on her back
were killed, the East India Company was accused of
mismanagement and the islands reverted to the
British Crown. In 1862 Sir Baartle Frere was
appointed Governor, an office which he held until
1867. By 1862 the town had spread over the lands
reclaimed through constructions of causeways and
it is from this date we have the rise of the
modern city of Bombay. In 1864 a fountain was to
be erected in his honour at the Victoria Gardens
by the Agri-Horticultural Society of Western
India. Somehow, the plans were changed at the last
moment and the fountain, named after the Greek
goddess Flora, was placed in the centre of the
city on what used be known as Hornby Road.
Unfortunately, no plaque was placed on the
fountain to commemorate the name of Governor in
whose memory it was supposed to have been erected.
Around 1860 the
piped water supply from Tulsi and Vehar lakes (and
later Tansa) was inaugurated. One reform which met
with much superstitious opposition, before it was
implemented, was the sealing and banning the use
of water from open wells and tanks that bred
mosquitoes. A good drainage system was also
constructed at the same time. However, several
decades later, the same wells were to serve Bombay
by providing non-potable water to supplement the
same from the lakes. This was true especially
during those years when the monsoons failed to
provide sufficient water in the catchment areas of
the lakes. However, well water is now used all
over the city to supplement the water received
from the lakes.
The later half of
the 19th century was also to see a feverish
construction of buildings in Bombay, many of which
such as, the Victoria Terminus, the General Post
Office, Municipal Corporation, the Prince of Wales
Museum, Rajabai Tower and Bombay University,
Elphinstone College and the Cawasji Jehangir Hall,
the Crawford Market, the Old Secretariat (Old
Customs House) and the Public Works Department (PWD)
Building, still stand today as major landmarks.
The Gateway of India was built to commemorate the
visit of king George V and Queen Mary for the
Darbar at Delhi in 1911.
The docks at Bombay
are a monument of the industry, enterprise and
integrity of the Wadia family which moved in from
Surat at the instigation of the British. In 1870
the Bombay Port Trust was formed. In 1872,
Jamshedji Wadia, a master ship-builder constructed
the "Cornwalis", a frigate of 50 guns, for the
East India Company, a success which led to several
orders from the British Navy. In all the Wadias,
between 1735-1863 built 170 war vessels for the
Company, 34 man-of-war for the British Navy, 87
merchant vessels for private firms, and three
vessels for the Queen of Muscat at Bombay docks.
The Princess Dock
was built in the year 1885 and the Victoria Dock
and the Mereweather Dry Docks in 1891. Alexandra
Dock was completed in 1914. The closing years of
the 19th Century were tragic for Bombay as the
bubonic plague caused great destruction of human
life once more. One significant result of the
plague was the creation of the City Improvement
Trust which in later years encouraged the
development of the suburbs for residential
purposes to remove the congestion in the city.
As Bombay's
superintendent of police in 1885, Charles Forjett
was a favourite of the Indian people. Many wept
openly when he returned to England. He sacked
British constables who unduly harassed the locals
and cracked down on the Parsi mafia which was
involved in the liquor business in the Falkland
Road area, which included the famous "Play House"
which the locals corrupted to "pillhouse". The "Pillhouse"
area would acquire notoriety in later years as the
infamous "cages" area housing Bombay's infamous
red-light district.
Lord Sandhurst
governed Bombay between 1895 and 1900 and it was
during his tenure that the Act was passed which
constituted the City Improvement Trust which,
among other things, built the Sandhurst Road in
1910 and handed it over to the municipality. The
Sandhurst Road railway station (upper level) was
built in 1921.
As a result of a
mysterious fire which started in one of its holds,
on a very hot summer's day on Friday April 14,
1944, the ship "Fort Stikine" (7420 tons) blew up
in the Bombay docks. At the time the ship was
about to unload a lethal combination of cargo of
dried fish and cotton bales (loaded from Karachi),
timber, gun powder, ammunition, and gold bars from
London (the latter to stabilize the Indian Rupee,
which was sagging due to the Second World War and
fear of invasion from Japan). The gold bullion was
valued at approx. two million Pounds Sterling at
that time. Nobody is certain as to how the fire
started but the two explosions which followed were
so loud that windows rattled and/or shattered as
far away as Dadar, a distance of 8 miles. The
destruction in the docks and surrounding area was
immense and several hundred dock workers were
killed instantly. A majority of brave men of the
Bombay Fire Brigade, who answered the call to duty
immediately after the first blast, lost their
lives in the second explosion (a monument has been
erected in the docks in their honour). The
population of the city was panic stricken as
rumours spread rapidly that the explosions
signaled the commencement of hostilities by the
Japanese on the same style as the surprise attack
on Pearl Harbour in the Hawaiian islands in
December 1941. The Japanese were in fact nowhere
near Bombay since they were engaged in fighting a
losing battle with the British army in Burma at
that time. Nevertheless, the Bombay Central
(BB&CI) and Victoria Terminus (GIP) stations were
packed to capacity with terrorized people fleeing
the city in whichever train they could board for
their villages with all belongings they could
carry. At the time of the explosion, one of the
gold bars crashed through the roof of the third
floor apartment of a Parsi named D.C. Motivala
more than a mile from the docks. He promptly
returned the gold bar to the authorities. Almost
all of the other gold bars were subsequently
recovered from different parts of the city; the
last ones to be found were hauled up from the
bottom of the sea in the docks. However, during
normal dredging operations carried out
periodically to maintain the depth of the docking
bays one or two gold bars were found intact
sporadically as late as the 1970s and returned to
the British government. The government took full
responsibility for the disaster and monetary
compensation was paid to citizens who made a claim
for loss or damage to property.
The Port Trust
Railway from Ballard Pier to Wadala was opened in
1915. Along this railway were built grain and fuel
oil depots. The kerosene oil installations were
developed at Sewri and for petrol at Wadala. In
the same year the first overhead transmission
lines of the Tata Power Company were erected, and
in 1927 the first electric locomotives
manufactured by Metropolitan Vickers of England
were put into service for passenger trains up to
Poona and Igatpuri on the GIP railway and later
electric multiple unit (EMUs) commuter trains ran
up to Virar on the BB&CI railway and up to Karjat
and Kasara of the GIP railway. During the Second
World War these EMUs were joined together to form
long trains which carried troops and small arms
and ammunition to and from Bombay to the
hinterland.
The Fort (downtown)
area in Bombay derives its name from the fact that
the area fell within the former walled city, of
which only a small fragment survives as part of
the eastern boundary wall of the St. George's
Hospital. In 1813 there were 10,801 persons living
in the fort, 5,464, or nearly 50%, of them Parsis.
With the growth of the city more people came from
the Fort to such suburbs as Byculla, Parel,
Malabar Hill, and Mazagaon. European sports clubs
for cricket and other games came in to existence
early in the 19th Century. The Bombay Gymkhana was
formed in 1875 exclusively for Europeans. Other
communities followed this example, and various
Parsi, Muslim, and Hindu gymkhanas were started
nearby with fierce sports competitions among them
being organized on a communal basis. This was
opposed by several secular minded persons, such as
the late A.F.S. Talyarkhan, and sports teams based
on community, especially cricket teams, came to an
end gradually after independence from British rule
in 1947.
The historic session
of the All India Congress Committee began on the
7th of August 1942. Its venue was the Gowalia Tank
Maidan, where the congress was born in 1885. It
was at this session that the "Quit India" call was
given by Mahatma Gandhi and other Indian National
Congress leaders. The Indian leaders were arrested
by the British soon afterwards but the momentum of
the Quit India movement could not be stopped and
led to the final withdrawal of the British on 15
August 1947. The last British troops on Indian
soil left for England through the archway of the
Gateway of India on that day. They bade farewell
from where they had entered 282 years before. The
people of Bombay, in a gesture of generosity
wished them bon voyage, forgetting the bitter
memories of the fight for independence. Today the
maidan from where the call to "Quit India" was
given is called the "August Kranti Maidan".
After independence
the Congress party led by Jawaharlal Nehru at the
Center was swept to power in most of the Indian
States, which were constituted on the basis of
language spoken by the majority of its people. The
Bombay State included the city as its seat of
government. In 1960 the state of Bombay was split
into Maharashtra and Gujarat states again on
linguistic basis, the former retaining Bombay city
as its capital. The Congress party continued to
administer Maharashtra until 1994 when it was
replaced by the Shiv Sena-Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP)
coalition.
With the success of
the back-bay reclamation scheme in the late 1960s
and early 1970s Nariman Point became the hub of
the business activity. Several offices shifted
from the Ballard Estate to Nariman Point which
ultimately became one of the most expensive real
estate in the world as high demand pushed prices
to astronomical limits. Nariman Point is named
after K.F. Nariman, president of the Bombay
Provincial Congress Committee and former mayor of
Bombay. Churchgate Street was also renamed as Veer
Nariman Road after independence.
The Stock Exchange
at Bombay was established in 1875 as "The Native
Share and Stockbrokers Association" which has
evolved over the decades in to its present status
as the premier Stock Exchange in India. It is one
of the oldest in Asia having preceded even the
Tokyo Stock Exchange which was founded in 1878. In
the early days the business was conducted under
the shade of a banyan tree in front of the town
hall. The tree can still be seen in the Horniman
Circle Park. In 1850 the Companies Act was passed
and that heralded the commencement of the joint
stock companies in India. The American Civil War
of 1860 helped Indians to establish brokerage
houses in Bombay. The leading broker at the time,
Premchand Roychand, assisted in framing
conventions, ground rules and procedures for
trading which are respected even now. He was the
first Indian broker who could speak and write in
fluent English. The exchange was established with
318 members with a fee of Re. 1/-. This fee has
gradually increased over the years and today it is
a over a crore.
In January 1899, the
Brokers' Hall was inaugurated by James M. MaClean,
M.P. After the First World War the Bombay Stock
Exchange (BSE) was housed in an old building near
the Town Hall. In 1928, the present plot of land
was acquired surrounded by Dalal Street, Bombay
Samachar Marg, and Hammam Street. A building was
constructed in 1930 and occupied in December of
that year.
In 1995 the
operations and dealings of the BSE were fully
computerized and thus the famous out-cry system of
share trading was replaced by screen based trading
as in other modern stock exchanges around the
world. Today Bombay is the financial and business
capital of India. The BSE is housed in the
28-storied Phiroze Jeejeebhoy Towers in the same
place where the old building once stood. Sir
Phiroze Jamshedji Jeejeebhoy was the Chairman of
the Exchange from 1966 till his death in 1980. The
building has been named after him since its
construction commenced during his Chairmanship and
was completed just as he passed away.